27 May 2015

Simplicity 2284 (jacket): Complete



I just haven't taken the time to get photos of me wearing it or the other things I made recently.  I will eventually.

Fabric & Notions
  • little more than 1.5 yards of wool tweed-like fabric
  • 1.5 yards of black ambiance lining
  • 20-inch metal separating zipper
  • six metal buttons
  • fusible interfacing
  • muslin scrap for back stay
  • bias-cut fleece strips for sleeve heads
  • 80/12 universal needle (shell); 70/10 microtex needle (lining)
  • sewing machine and serger

Size & Fit/Alterations:  I've had really good experience with Simplicity's multi-cup patterns.  I recently tried to sew the very popular Butterick 5678 dress shirt pattern and it was a huge fail.  Though I used the D-cup pattern piece, it was still too tight, then too loose, then too tight again.  I mean, way to play with my emotions.  

Simplicity's multi-cup patterns, on the other hand, seem to agree with my curves much better.  I started with a size 16 D cup and made the following minor adjustments:
  • lowered bust fullness 1 inch on the front and side front panels
  • 1 inch sway back adjustment
  • shortened the sleeves 1.5 inches between the notches

That's it!  I can zip the entire jacket up to my neck and there is ZERO pulling.  I would never wear it completely zipped, but the fact that I can makes me do a happy-dance.

The only thing is the neckline is a little wide when zipped.  The front stands away from my neck, but since I'll never wear it zipped, it's not a big deal. 

Zipper Length:  One note about choosing a zipper.  The envelope suggests an 18-inch zipper for all cup sizes.  This is ridiculous since each cup size increases the length of the seam over the bust.  Fortunately, the only zipper Joann had at the time was a 20-inch zipper and it turned out to be the perfect length.  So if you make this jacket and need a larger cup size, make sure to increase the length of the zipper.

Construction:  Sewing the jacket was pretty straight forward.  My only worry was the vented sleeve with mitred corners.  Since I never did anything like that before, I was nervous.  Hah.  I channeled my inner crafty chemist and just went for it.

I wish I took pictures.  The mitred corners were PERFECT.  My button sewing?  Not so much.  Meh, that's how it goes.
I added my usual light-tailoring techniques:  fused interfacing to whole front, added back stay, and sleeve heads.  I should have interfaced the hems, but I didn't.  They're not as crisp as they can be.  I'll do it next time.

Instructions:  The instructions were fairly straightforward.  If you're sewing the zippered-front version and have attached the lining, skip the foolishness that is this step:

Leave an opening in the jacket hem to turn right side out.  Slipstitch opening.

With other jacket patterns, this (or some variation) makes total sense.  But in this view, the center front and front facing are sewn last with the zipper which leaves a big ass gaping hole for you to turn the jacket right side out.  So much NO. 


Conclusion:  Despite how long it took me to finish the jacket, I enjoyed sewing it and definitely plan to make it again.  It can be worn with jeans or a skirt and I kinda like not having a collar.


In this weirdly tiny photo, the jacket is shown with McCall's 6078 (knit cowl neck top) and New Look 6809 (OOP skirt).

***

These pieces are part of my what-appears-to-be-a-year-long Starting from Scratch wardrobe-building project.  I've made several pieces for the project and will post an update with the completed pieces soon.  I need to make a black tee shirt and that's proving to be way harder than I expected.

Until next time, peace!

L



19 May 2015

Today's Miscellany

1.  No good reason for bad blogging.
2.  Just bad blogging.
3.  I've been very fatigued lately.
4.  And a bit lazy.
5.  I slept twelve hours last night.
6.  That is rare.  Really rare.
7.  And a little scary.
8.  No I am not sewing for two.
9.  Just really tired.
10.  The sewjo is on leave.
11.  I did make two muslins of a button-up shirt and a t-shirt.
12.  Both are tres hiddy.
13.  I have reviews to write about three successful garments.
14.  Gotta get pictures.
15.  See item #4.
16.  Yesterday it was 80+ degrees.
17.  Today it is 55 degrees.
18.  Even the birds are like WTF?
19.  Why do people stand pigeon-toed in their photos?
20.  Is this really a thing?
21.  I tried it.  My knees hurt and I look ridiculous.
22.  I gained weight.
23.  See item #10.
24.  I suck at Instagramming.
25.  I still need a new computer.

What's on your mind today?

28 April 2015

Welcome the Newest Visitors to Wadderville

I call them "visitors" because there may be hope.  Maybe.  For now, they both need lots and lots of time in Narnia - one step beyond the magic closet.

First up is the BWOF trench skirt (8-2009-107).  This has so much fail and it's all because of the fabric.  It's just too heavy for this pattern.  I am bummed about this too because I bought the fabric initially for a jacket.  I should have stuck with my original plan.  Oh well.

It looks horrible on me, so dress form pics are all I have.  The skirt is pinned to the form and so are the buttons.  


Given that I shortened the pattern 1", I probably should have repositioned the diagonal topstitching so that it was proportional.

The hem is turned under twice and topstitched.  With the fabric being so thick, I can't get the pleats to lie flat.  I could unpick the hem and lop some shit off, but I don't feel like it right now.

The instructions aren't that bad if you read them slowly and a few times.  The word maze sort of works itself out in the mind and it starts to actually make sense.

I'll definitely sew the skirt again, but in a much lighter-weight fabric.

Next is the very ambitious interlined eyelet button-front blouse, Simplicity 4077.  This pattern has been in and out of the rotation for...hmm...six years or so.  I made the FBA, but did not like how the darts looked.  So I converted both the front and back darts to princess seams and got the fit that I like.

Unfortunately, something is still off about this version.  Because the eyelets are rather big, I decided to underline each piece with a light-weight cotton batiste.  This thing feels like a suit of armor and I haven't even put in the sleeves or ruffles.  


Meh.  I have no motivation to finish it.

I had high hopes for both garments, but alas, it is not to be...for now at least.

I want to sew something, but my sewjo is on hiatus in the worst way.  I don't even feel like sewing a pair of jeans.  =/  

I'm in a funk inside and outside of the sewing room; I hope the tide will turn soon.

L





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